Kanyakumari is the southernmost tip of India. It’s where three seas (the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal) meet. It is one of the few places where you can see the sun rise from the ocean and set into the ocean.
I went to Kanyakumari last time I was in India.
And decided I wanted to go again. One reason is that Johny couldn’t come last time because he was studying for his exams. And I promised I’d take him next time I came back. Plus I thought it would be a nice adventure to go on a day trip with Elaine. And introduce her to Indian buses.
So Elaine and I were joined by Johny and his friend John (seriously, there are other letters in the alphabet you know). John doesn’t speak much English. But he understands everything that’s going on. And he’s very funny.
We weren’t going to be able to make it to Kanyakumari for sunrise nor would we be able to stay for sunset, but that was ok. It’s a nice enough place anyway.
I stayed in Poonthura with Johny’s family the night before. Mainly so I could make sure he actually got out of bed and left the house. We were due to leave at 7:30. I woke him up just after 7. I was ready to go. He got up, eventually. Then had a wash. Then a shave. Then got dressed. I texted Elaine to tell her that we were up and moving but we might be a bit late (no surprise there). We did leave the house at about 8:30. Mind you, Johny did look gorgeous. So it seems all the early morning preening was worthwhile.
John had been waiting outside for us since 7:30. Well done John for being on time! And also looking gorgeous.
We got the bus out to Puthiyathura where Elaine was staying. I dumped some stuff there and collected Elaine (who always looks gorgeous). The boys got the 3rd degree from one of the nuns. Note: boys, don’t loiter guiltily at the front gate of a convent, it only makes you look suspicious.
Johny managed to get us on the right bus and we took him further south than he’s ever been. Changed buses. Changed states. We’re now in Tamil Nadu. And about 3 hours after collecting Elaine we got to Kanyakumari.
There’s a small island with a temple and a boat goes out to it. And a wind farm along the coast in the distance. And shops selling all sorts of crap made out of sea shells. I mean really? Who wants a mirror with a frame in the shape of two kissing doves made out of sea shells? Seriously? Or a sea shell chandelier? Or those strings of sea shells that you hang from doorways just to annoy people walking through them (never really understood those, fly screens I understand, doors I understand, curtains or strings of beads/shells I don’t understand). But it’s not just your name painted on a sea shell. You can also buy monkeys carved out of coconuts (obligatory tourist tat), dancing flower pots, plastic children’s tea sets, clothes, buddha statues, elephant statues, etc.
We managed to restrain ourselves and not buy any crap whatsoever. Well done us.
We didn’t go to the museum that would have charged 10 rupees each for the boys and 100 rupees each for the girls. (That would be because we’re foreign rather than because we have ovaries.)
We found a hotel for lunch. Johny was a bit freaked by the fancy place I’d suggested (even though I’d told him I was buying lunch) so we settled for the place across the road. Elaine was happy enough with it. Well, till the food came out. Not that she (or any of the rest of us were unhappy). Just that that was not the best Indian meal we’ve ever had.
We went across the road to the fancy hotel since I was in need of a cold coffee and the place we were in for lunch didn’t do them. Nice.
Then off to find a boat and an island with a temple (or two).
Elaine noticed something that she mentioned to me later. It’s amazing how in India there are temples with such amazingly clean floors you could eat off them. And then there are restaurants with such amazingly dirty tables that the thought of eating off them is enough to drive anyone to fast.
People in India can clean. And sometimes they do. It’s just that sometimes they don’t.
We realised we were running a bit late so headed off to find the bus station and a bus to get us back home again. Well, the first of two buses that would get us back home.
There was a guy on the bus who was sitting across the aisle from Elaine and me and one row in front of us. Now, I don’t know if he visits a chiropractor, but he should have done after that hour on the bus. But if he does, I think Elaine and I deserve a commission. He spent the entire bus trip with his head twisted round so he could stare at us. I ignored him. Elaine stared back for a bit. Johny and John (who were in full blown bodyguard mode at this point) were staring at him too. I asked Johny if staring is considered rude in India. Maybe it isn’t. Maybe we were just being over-sensitive westerners. Nope. It’s rude in India too. But bless his little cotton socks, Johny did ask whether this happened in Kerala too (or just Tamil Nadu). He was a little crestfallen to discover that people from his own state do it to us too. In fact, people from his own village do it to us too.
But, it was only staring. The guy got off the bus at his stop. He never said a word to us. He didn’t try to convince us to go to a hotel with him (that has happened to me on buses before). He didn’t ask for our phone numbers. He didn’t propose marriage. He didn’t try to touch us. So actually, one of the better bus experiences I’ve had.
We had to wait for ages (and in three different places at the one bus station) to change buses. But we did eventually find the right one going the right way (thanks Johny and John). We got to Poovar by bus and then the boys found an auto (three wheeler) for us to take us back to the convent. They waited to make sure we got safely inside and then then headed off to get the bus back home.
It was a long day, about 7 hours of buses. But a very, very nice day indeed.
Big thanks to Johny and John for being such superb tour guides, translators, bus ticket buyers, water buyers (Johny nearly missed one bus because he’d gone in search of water for me), bodyguards and all round good company.